The broken china on Wat Arun came over as ballast

Wat Arun stands on the Thonburi bank of the Chao Phraya, and its tower is encrusted with broken porcelain and shells set in flower patterns. Much of that porcelain first came to Bangkok as ballast on ships from China.

The temple takes its name from Aruna, the Hindu god often pictured as the rays of the rising sun. According to tradition, King Taksin passed it at daybreak and vowed to restore it.

From the east bank, the nearest crossing is at Tha Tien pier, next to Wat Pho. It is a stop on the Chao Phraya Express Boat, and a small cross-river ferry from there reaches Wat Arun in a few minutes.

On the pier side, the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew share one walled compound, and you need clothes that cover your shoulders and knees to go in. Wat Pho, just to the south, has a gilded reclining Buddha 46 metres long, with mother-of-pearl patterns inlaid on the soles of its feet.

In the evening, Yaowarat Road lights up with the signs of its gold shops, and plastic stools and food stalls fill the pavement.

Boat noodles were once sold from boats on the canals. The bowls are small and the broth is dark, so people often order several and stack the empties on the table.