Watchers can join a niwaka-ren and dance in the street
Related guide: Awa Odori 2027
Every ren, or dance troupe, moves in a fixed order: a banner or lantern at the front, then the dancers, then a band of shamisen, taiko drums, kane gongs and shinobue flutes. From 12 to 15 August each year, during Obon, the troupes take turns from early evening on the enbujo stages and streets of central Tokushima.
Women dance in yukata and half-moon amigasa straw hats, up on the toes of their geta with arms raised. Men keep low, knees bent, with broad, loose movements. Every dancer in a troupe follows the same steps to the band's beat.
There are three paid enbujo, Aibahama, Minami-Uchimachi and Konyamachi, each with shows at 18:00 and 20:20 and cleared in between. Tickets are sold through Ticket Pia. You can also watch for free at the Ryogoku-Honmachi and Dennou Kotsu enbujo, at two odori hiroba, or on the streets, where troupes dance as they walk.
To take part, join a niwaka-ren: no sign-up, no dress code, and dancers from well-known local troupes teach a few basic steps first. A line of the festival song runs "the dancers are fools and the watchers are fools, so if you're a fool either way, why not dance?"
The full guide to this festival
Awa Odori 2027: 12–15 August in Tokushima City, ticketed enbujo seats or free street viewing
Full guide: dates, getting there and what you can book →
