The one old Chiang Mai gate that still has its wooden doors

Tha Phae Gate was first built in 1296, when King Mangrai founded the city, as the eastern gate of the inner town. The red-brick gate standing now was rebuilt between 1985 and 1987 by Chiang Mai Municipality and the Fine Arts Department, and it is the only gate of the old inner wall that still has its full wooden doors.

A square moat encloses the old city. From Tha Phae Gate, Ratchadamnoen Road runs west to Wat Phra Singh at its far end. Every Sunday evening the road closes to traffic and becomes the Sunday Walking Street.

Breakfast in Chiang Mai's old city often comes from street stalls. Sai ua, the northern herb sausage, is grilled over charcoal, and khao soi stalls keep a pot of yellow coconut curry broth warm over a low flame, usually with a film of red chilli oil on top.

Khao soi is soft egg noodles in coconut curry broth, with a small nest of the same noodles fried crisp on top. On the side come pickled mustard greens, shallots, a wedge of lime and a spoonful of dark chilli paste. Coconut and turmeric carry the broth; the lime and pickles cut through it.

West of the city, on Doi Suthep, stands Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The long stairway up to it is flanked by balustrades shaped as the bodies of nagas, running from the foot of the steps to the temple gate.